Updates to the DPMS G2 Hunter.

I previously wrote about what I thought would make an excellent rural patrol rifle. Since then I have made some updates to mine that I thought might be interesting to some of you.

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My first alteration to the rifle after I got it was to remove the barrel and have it threaded for a Silencerco Trifecta mount for my Silencerco Saker. I took this to a gunsmith friend of mine and he had it done in under an hour. We discussed fluting the barrel, but he did not figure there would be enough gained to justify doing it.

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My next upgrade was to mount some rails to the carbon fiber forend. Had this been aluminum then this would have been a very simple task, but as I learned carbon fiber is not the same animal as aluminum.

Before I started I did research on how to drill through carbon fiber and I learned that a brad point drill bit is preferred because it makes a cleaner hole then a normal drill bit. I needed to drill 1/8 inch holes to bolt the rails on, and I wanted to drill about a dozen half inch holes along the top of it for ventilation. I was thinking about something similar to the PRI carbon fiber handguards

The eighth inch holes drilled fine and I didn’t have any issues with those, but the half inch holes are another story. With carbon fiber, you have to press very gently as you drill so you do not blow out the back side of the carbon fiber. I found with my first half inch hole that I could not drill gently enough to keep from blowing out the back.

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So after my first hole I decided the ventilation holes were not that important, and I filled the hole with epoxy and sanded it smooth. I also smeared some epoxy on the backside to help strengthen it.

The rails that I used are a variety of different lengths of polymer Picatinny rails. The bottom side of these rails are designed to be mounted to a flat surface so I had to modify them to fit the curved surface of my handguard.

To do this I took a chunk of inch and a half PVC and using some sandpaper slowly sanded the back of the rails until they had a curve that matched my hand guard.

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A trick I found to helping do this was to use a rail mounted accessory like a grip to help hold the rail while I sanded it.

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When I was ready to begin mounting the rails, I lightly sanded the entire handguard to get rid of the glossy sheen it had. I then used more epoxy and smeared it along the back of the rails before I bolted them to the handguard. I wanted to make sure that these were as strong as I could make them.

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I let the handguard set for two days to cure, and then mounted it back to the rifle using blue Loctite. DPMS uses red Loctite on everything from the factory, and it is an SOB to get loose. It takes a lot of patience, and a lot of heat. If this handguard had a set screw to tighten into the barrel nut I wouldn’t have used loctite at all, but since it only has a locknut I thought it couldn’t hurt.

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I would not recommend this method of mounting rails if you are planning on mounting some sort of optics or other precision instrument. The only things I’m worried about mounting are a light if needed, a bipod , a sling and maybe some backup sights. I think I mounted the top rail good enough to be able to sight in some folding sights for closer ranges.

The next modification was simply to paint it. I used to use Cerakote type c on all my firearms, but I found the prep work is just too much for the time I have available so I just use Krylon. The nice part about Cerakote is the different colors that are available and it does last really well where Krylon is only limited to a few colors and wears somewhat easily. Of course it’s very easy to touch up as well.

I started out by masking all the parts of the gun that I didn’t want to paint, including the optics and turrets and the muzzle. Other than that it was free game. I then removed the scope mount with the scope in it and degreased the outside of it with some denatured alcohol.

Once this was dry, I painted the bottom side of the scope and the mount with some khaki paint since that would be a hard place to reach when it was mounted on the gun. When your painting you always start with the hardest places to reach first,  that way you don’t get the whole thing 99% done,  and see you missed a spot and end up causing a run trying to get it. After that was dry I re-mounted it to the rifle to paint the rest.

I prefer to leave everything mounted on the gun while I paint because I feel it blends better. Once I was done masking, I took a can of brake cleaner and sprayed the gun down holding it up by the muzzle and letting the brake cleaner run down and off the gun. I repeated this step a few times to get all the oils off before I painted.

I started with the darker of the two colors, which is a medium colored brown spray paint that was sold under the Remington name that I got a while back. I like to start with the dark colors first so if I accidentally put too much on I can cover some of it up with a lighter color. Now when you’re painting don’t forget accessories like scope caps, especially the inside, and bipods and magazines.

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I removed the sticky rubber Hogue grip when I was painting so the brake cleaner didn’t damage it. This is just the base coat to help break up the outline of the object being camouflaged. After this will go foliage and netting to help blend into the environment better.

I’ll give you my two cents on camouflaging a weapon. A lot of people, including myself, are always worried about what pattern to use. You can find thousands of discussions on which pattern is better. All I can say is some patterns look cool up close, but cool up close isn’t what we’re going for. We’re going for invisible.

Now the first idea you should probably get used to is that your not going to make your gun invisible by just painting it. Painting is the base to your camouflage. So what we want to do here is break up the general outline of the rifle with natural, non contrasting colors. By non-contrasting I mean non-contrasting with your environment.

You also want to avoid darker colors because at distance the human eye tends to blend whatever it sees into one color. That’s why most people would look at a bush at 100 yards and say it is “green”, when in actuality up close it is made up of many different colors and shades of colors. This is why bigger, blotchy patterns blend better than little patterns. So don’t worry about using black, unless your environment has a lot of shadows. It takes a lot of thought and observation to come up with a scheme for your rifle. A little advice I could give is lighter is better. Darker objects tend to jump out at distance to the human eye compared to lighter colored objects. Now obviously you still want to use colors that blend well in your environment, so use your own discretion.

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See how the further away you go, the darker objects stick out more?

The next time you’re out and about just look around and see what jumps out to you when you look across the terrain. I think you’ll find that areas in shadow or darker colored plants and rocks tend to be more noticeable at first glance than objects that are slightly lighter.

Now that I’m done taking this rifle apart I should be able to finally fine tune the ballistics on it. I’ll build a data book for it and prove the ballistics at longer range. I’ll be sure and write up an article for those too.

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Updates to the DPMS G2 Hunter.

17 thoughts on “Updates to the DPMS G2 Hunter.

  1. Mike Bishop says:

    Paint job looks great.

    Carbon fiber scares the bejesus outta me, mostly from what I’ve seen from carbon fiber arrows exploding/shattering. It is definitely its own animal. That said, I’d imagine the weight reduction helps offset some of the muzzle weight from the can.

    Slick setup, bro.

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    1. shocktroop0351 says:

      Yeah, I know what you mean, I definitely checked around to see if it would be ok to drill it. If PRI ever makes a handguard for the G2 I’ll be saving up my pennies because carbon fiber is awesome for weight savings. That rifle weighs in at 10.5 pounds ready to go without ammo, so I’m pretty happy. I kind of think of it as my modern American SVD.

      Liked by 1 person

  2. John says:

    Question about the suppressor….. I just had my DPMS G2 Lite Hunter threaded to accept my AAC 762-SDN-6. I have an issue where 7.62 147 grain ammo shoots fine with the suppressor BUT when I use my hunting “Ted Nugent 180 grain” .308 ammo the rifle FTE’s on the second shot. It happened twice…. the second time it jammed the casing pretty good and had to use a rod to get it to come out of the barrel. I am looking to upgrade the buffer with a 10oz heavy buffer to help…. Maybe an adjustable gas block if needed. My question is did you experience any issues when shooting suppressed? If so have you looked into any remedies? Thanks! I would love to see more updates on your rifle as it progresses!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. shocktroop0351 says:

      Hey John, sorry to hear about the issues with your ammo. I mainly shoot 175 grain Sierra matchkings, using the same powder charge as federal gold medal match. I haven’t had any issues at all with mine cycling. From what I understand I think you are on the right path to solving your problem. Another option might be going to a lighter bullet if that’s possible. The 165 grain Sierra gameking would be a good option I would think. They are just a 175 grain matchking that has had the tip removed and filled with lead. Do you have any signs of overpressure on your primer?

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  3. John says:

    Thanks for the reply! I am swapping hunting bullets to a Winchester Deer Season XP which is a 150 grain bullet… hopefully the grain reduction helps.I also have the 10oz Heavy Buffer and an adjustable gas block coming. From what I was told by my buddy who works at Primary Arms here in Houston is that the DPMS G2 Hunter is heavy on gas…. and taming that will help me solve the issue. So I am headed down that road and expect both new parts to be in my hands by Friday. I hope to be testing the add-ons this weekend!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. shocktroop0351 says:

      I’m betting you’ll have good luck with that. I shot Federal 150 grain soft points out of mine last fall and I didn’t have any issues with that. Which adjustable gas block are you using? You’re lucky to have a friend working at primary arms, I’ve been interested in their scopes for a couple of years now and they seem to be making some pretty innovative stuff. Are you going to try out one of their optics?

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      1. John says:

        They have an adjustable gas block on sale right now for $25….. so I figured “why not?” at that price. http://www.primaryarms.com/blackwood-arms-low-profile-adjustable-gas-blocks-750-bwa-agb So I think with the two new parts and lower grain ammo I will be back on the good road.

        I own two Primary Arms optics…. the 6x (AR 5,.56) and 2.5x (Ar 300 BO Pistol) prismatic scopes with their ACSS reticle. I like them for sub 100 yard shooting…. although the 6x can go further effectively.

        The scope I use on my DPMS G2 Hunter is what I call a “rags to riches” scope. Cheap at $115 cost but I really like it over my Leupold 3-9×40. It’s a KonusPro 6-24×44. I took down 10 deer in the last 2 years with it on my Mossberg ATR 100 all shot dead in their tracks (one ran 25 yards after a heart shot). When I bought the DPMS I upgraded my scope to the Leupold… but as nice as the optic was It did not give me the what the KonusPro gave me. So I ordered one for the new DPMS and sold the Leupold. For $115 it’s a great scope.

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      2. shocktroop0351 says:

        I think my first 1-4 optic was a konus. It was a decent scope and I ended up selling it to a friend to put on his M1A. He still uses it and that was about five years ago. Have you been able to fix your FTF’S on your G2? Took mine out yesterday to reconfirm zeroes with a few other rifles before winter, and started having them. I may need to give it a good cleaning and lubing, but I doubt have that many rounds through it since the last cleaning. Curious to see how your situation ends up.

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      3. John says:

        So I installed the adjustable gas block, the 10oz solid buffer and a silicon chrome high power buffer spring. I also switched to Winchester Deer Season XP 150 grain ammo. The G2 Hunter is running well now…. but even with the adjustable gas block set to max reduction the pressure is still a little high when using the suppressor.The Winchester Deer Season XP is very accurate…. damn near drills the same holes in 4 shot groups. But the brass still shows slight signs of over gassing. So the brass cannot be reused but it cycles fine otherwise. I dropped in a CMC 3.5 pound single stage flat trigger as well since Primary has them on sale for 25% off right now. I am not a fan of 2 stage triggers…. so it is an upgrade for me. I am now confident in the rifle so I am ready to get into a deer stand and make magic happen!

        Liked by 1 person

  4. shocktroop0351 says:

    That’s surprising that it is still overgassed with the adjustable block and heavy buffer. I found a series of videos this morning on youtube that helps with diagnosing AR gas issues. https://youtu.be/IvTW1mHmw8g
    It’s a pretty good series and is helping me to troubleshoot my FTF’s with my G2. I’ve had two in the last 2 weeks in about 30 rounds. This is after about 80 rounds through the gun while suppressed. It very well could be dirty, since I’ve only cleaned it once. I suppose with the suppressor it gets dirtier quicker. I’m going to be trying a different lube, some Royal Purple pump bearing lubricant. A friend put a good coat in his new AR, ran 500 rounds of wolf and PMC through it without cleaning it and didn’t have one issue. If it’s good enough for pump bearings that run outside 24/7 I’m betting it will work good on an AR. Good luck hunting!

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  5. Question: I own the LR-338 Federal. I was thinking of getting the G2 Hunter but I have one question: Is that Carbon Fiber Handguard glued onto the barrel nut or is it attached some other way? If so, can it be taken off and put back on so that it remains lined up as it was before removing it? Thanks.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. shocktroop0351 says:

      Hi Michael, the handguards have an aluminum threaded insert on the receiver end. This threads onto the barrel nut, there’s a picture of the barrel nut up above. I believe they use red Loctite on these threads at the factory. It took about 20 minutes with a map torch to get them loose, make sure you have a strap wrench also.

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      1. I should have looked at the picture more closely. That explains it. A picture is worth a thousand words when it is looked at carefully. A couple other questions: 1. Did your G2 Hunter run flawlessly or close to flawlessly before you put the suppressor on it? 2. How about after mounting the suppressor? Thanks for your time.

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      2. John says:

        In my case the G2 Hunter ran fine prior to suppressing. But once I put the suppressor on the over gasing was pretty bad. I actually had shells expand to the point that they would not eject. They would get stuck in the barrel which required me to hit the butt stock on the ground while pulling the charging handle down to get it to release. That was with the AAC 762 SDN-6…. not sure how much a different suppressor will change the back pressure. Also, I was using 180 grain ammo…. and I changed that to 150 grain ammo which helped as well.

        Overall I am pleased with the accuracy, the overall weight and look of the G2 hunter. I almost built an AR-10 from scratch…. but I’m glad that my buddy at Primary Arms turned me onto this rifle. This will be used for deer hunting in Texas and replaced my Mossberg 100 ATR .308 rifle. This rifle was only 1 pound heavier… and I get semi-auto ability to quickly fire that 2nd shot “just in case” the deer is a runner! I also came to like the carbon fiber hand guard. I had ever intention to change it but it really grew on me.

        Good luck!

        Liked by 1 person

      3. shocktroop0351 says:

        No problem. So far the only issue I’ve had is a failure to cycle when the gun was really dirty after about 200 rounds suppressed. I cleaned and relubed it and it has been fine since. I saw a James Yeager video where he said pmags don’t work in these rifles, but I haven’t had any issues.

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